Thursday, December 14, 2023

18C London Women & The Macaroni

Detail. M. Darly, Macaroni Dressing Room, London, June 26, 1772.

Between 1760 and 1800, enterprising London engravers & printmakers produced and marketed hundreds of mezzotint prints aimed at the growing popular market (comprised mostly of the urban middling sort) who were hungry for affordable prints.

Often these mezzotints, also called drolls, were humorous or satirical and were almost always created in a small 10 x 14 inch format which could be easily and cheaply framed. They were advertised in contemporary print catalogues and easily fit into a print shop display window or into a portfolio case. A traditional mezzotint print would sell for about 8 shillings. A colored droll would be only 2 shillings, and these mezzotints uncolored would cost 1 shilling.

Spectators at a Print Shop. Carrington Bowles. London. 1774. New York Public Library.

One of the targets of mezzotint satire was a macaroni (or earlier maccaroni), which in mid-18th-century England referred to a fashionable fellow who dressed & spoke in an outlandishly affected manner. The term pejoratively referred to a man who exceeded the ordinary bounds of fashion in terms of clothing, dining, speech, & entertainment.


The Marcaroni Print Shop (The shop of Mary & Matthew Darly).

Young Englishmen who had traveled to Italy on the Grand Tour often adopted the Italian word maccherone — a boorish fool in Italian — and called anything that seemed fashionable "very macaroni."

London Print Shop of William Humphrey (c.1740-c.1810).

In 1764 Horace Walpole mentioned “The Maccaroni Club (which is composed of all the travelled young men who wear long curls and spying-glasses).” A writer in the Oxford Magazine wrote in 1770, “There is indeed a kind of animal, neither male nor female, a thing of the neuter gender, lately started up amongst us. It is called Macaroni. It talks without meaning, it smiles without pleasantry, it eats without appetite, it rides without exercise, it wenches without passion.”


Courtship for Money. Philip Dawe Fecit. for John Bowles, London. 1772.

The song “Yankee Doodle,” popular during the American Revolutionary War, mentions a man who "stuck a feather in his hat and called it macaroni." The terms dandy (from the song) and fop also referred to fancy, fashionable gentlemen. At least 2 of the mezzotints focusing on macaronis depict well-dressed young men declaring their undying love to rather homely older women for their money.

Courtship for Money. Carington Bowles, London 1772.

Engravers & printsellers Mary & Matthew Darly in the fashionable west End of London sold sets of satirical "macaroni" caricature prints, between 1771 & 1773. Because of its location & merchandise, the Darly print shop became known as "The Macaroni Print-Shop."

The austerity, anger, & abridged trade of the American Revolution dampened the desire for these mezzotints during the late 1770-80s on both sides of the Atlantic. By the 1790s, the leading droll printsellers, Robert Sayer (1725-1794) and Carington Bowles (1724-1793), were handing their businesses and stock over to others.


By 1800, the enthusiasm for the mezzotint droll was exhausted, soon to be replaced by other emerging engraving techniques, such as stipple and aquatint, as the media favored for the popular print market. Lithography was invented by Alois Senefelder (1771-1834) in Germany around 1798. In 1811, Senefelder published The Invention of Lithography, which was soon translated into English, French, & Italian, and the popularity of the technique soared.

Wednesday, December 13, 2023

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Tuesday, December 12, 2023

17C English Women during the English Civil War by Wenceslaus Hollar (1607-1677) in 1641

 


 Hollar, a Czech etcher, was born in 1607, the son of an upper middle-class civic official. Very little is known about his early life, but he evidently learned the rudiments of his craft by age 18, left his native Prague at age 20, & likely studied in Frankfurt under Matthaus Merian. His 1st book of etchings was published in 1635, in Cologne when Hollar was 28. The following year he came to the attention of the renowned art collector the Earl of Arundel who was making an official visit to the continent, & Hollar subsequently became a part of his household, settling in England early in 1637. 

He remained in England during the beginning of the English Civil War period, but left London for Antwerp in 1642, where he continued to work on a variety of projects.

 In 1652 he returned to England, working on a number of large projects for the publisher John Ogilby & for the antiquary Sir William Dugdale. Hollar was in London during the Great Fire of 1666, & remains most famous for his scenes of the city before & after the fire. He was one of the most skilled etchers of his or any other time, which is all the more remarkable given that he was almost blind in one eye. Hollar died in London on 25 March 1677. By his life's end, he had produced some 2700 separate etchings.









Monday, December 11, 2023

18C Women Around the World


Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Sunday, December 10, 2023

19C Sisters & Sisterhood - It's Good to have Family in December

The Ainslie Sisters (Agnes and Margaret), 1808, by Thomas Stewardson (British, 1781–1859)

Jacob Eichholtz (American Painter, 1776-1842) The Ragan Sisters, 1818

John Trumbull (1756-1843) The Misses Mary and Hannah Murray 1806

1823 Laura May Elton (1811–1848), and Julia Elizabeth Elton (1807–1881) by Thomas Barker


Saturday, December 9, 2023

18C Women Around the World


Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Friday, December 8, 2023

18C Sisters & Sisterhood - It's Good to have Family in December


Portrait of the daughters of Johann Julius von Vieth und Golssenau, c. 1775, by Anton Graff.

Portrait of Two Sisters, 1790s, by Marie-Victoire Lemoine  (French, 1754-1820).


Thursday, December 7, 2023

18C Women Around the World


Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Wednesday, December 6, 2023

17C Women with Conservative White Ruffs on Black Gowns

1602 Catalina de la Cerda, Duquesa de Lerma Fundacion Casa Ducal de Medinaceli, Spain

Ceremonial paintings of women often retained the conservative black & white depictions including the ruff in the 1600s. The ruff usually evolved into a more relaxed form as time passed.  Northern European women gave up their traditional black & white dress including ruffs more slowly. The standing ruff survived into the 1620's, but from 1615 to 1640 the falling ruff was more popular.

Giovanna Garzoni (Italian artist, 1600-1670) Marie Christine of France, Duchess of Savoy, wife of Duke Victor Amadeus I, Duke of Savoy, daughter of King Henry IV of France and Maria de' Medici

The ruff remained as a component of the ceremonial dress of city councillors in North German cities; of certain Lutheran clergy in Denmark, Norway, on the Faeroe Islands, in Iceland, & in Greenland.

Attributed to Frans Pourbus the Younger (1569-1622)

Michiel Jansz van Miereveldt (died 1641) Portrait of a Woman, 1628

Cornelis de Vos (Flemish Baroque painter, 1584-1651)

Cornelis de Vos (Flemish Baroque painter, 1584-1651) Two sisters

Cornelis de Vos (Flemish Baroque painter, 1584-1651)

1632 Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn (1606-1669) Portrait of a Woman, probably a Member of the Van Beresteyn Family

In style Johannes Cornelisz Verspronck (1606-1662) Lady with a Ruff

1642 Michael Conrad Hirt (1613–1671) Anna Rosina Tanck, Wife of the Mayor of Lübecker

Cornelius Johnson (Flemish-born English Baroque Era Painter, 1593-1661) Portrait of a Woman

Cornelius Johnson (Flemish-born English Baroque Era Painter, 1593-1661) Lady Hester Bowyer (d 1665)


1600s Cornelis de Vos (Flemish Baroque painter, 1584-1651) Antonia Canis

1603 Peter Paul Rubens (Belgian painter, 1577-1640) Lady with Rosary

1605 attr to Domenico Robusti, also known as Domenico Tintoretto, (Italian painter, 1560-1635 , Portrait of a Woman

1610 Unknown woman by Robert Peake the Elder (English painter, c 1551–1619)

1610 William Larkin (English painter, c 1580 – 1619) Mary Radcliffe m Sir John Gell of Hopton

1611 Agnes Fermor attr to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Flemish English painter, 1562–1635)

1634 Frans Hals (Netherlandish painter, 1580-1666) Malle Babbe

1640 Frans Hals (Netherlandish painter, 1580-1666) Woman with a Fan

1661 Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn (1606-1669) Margaretha de Geer