1675 Instructions for Chambermaids

Wenceslaus Hollar (European-born English artist, 1607-1677) Woman with bonnet with serrated edge. 1645

Hannah Woolley. The Gentlewoman's Companion: or, A Guide to the Female Sex. London, A Maxwell for Edward Thomas, Bookseller. 1675.

Instructions for Chambermaids

It will be required of you, that you Dress well that you may be able to supply the place of the waiting-woman, should the chance to fall sick, or be absent from your Lady; you must wash fine Linnen well and starch Tiffanies, Lawns Points, and Laces, mend them neatly; and wash white Sarcenets, with such like things.

You must make your Ladies bed; lay up, and lay out her Night-clothes; see that her Chamber be kept clean, and nothing wanting which she desires or requires to be done. Be modest in your deportment, ready at her call, always diligent, answering not again when reprov'd, but with pacifying words; loving & courteous to your fellow-servants not gigling or idling out your time, nor wantoning in the society of men; you will find the benefit thereof; for an honest and sober man will sooner make that woman his Wife whom he seeth continually imployed about her business, than one who makes it her business to trifle away her own and others time; neither will a virtuous and understanding Mistress long entertain such a servant whom she finds of such a temper.

Be not subject to change, For a rouling stone gathers no moss; and as you will gain but little money, so if you ramble up and down you will lose your credit.

It may be a fellow-servant may court you; but before you entertain the motion, consider how you must live; by inconsiderately marrying you may have one joyful meeting, and ever after a sorrowful living, and have time to repent of your rash matching.

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

16C Portraits of Women attributed to Alessandro Allori (1535-1607) or Followers

.

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) 1560 Eleanor of Toledo by Allesandro Allori

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607)  Isabella de Medici, c. 1560

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Worskhop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607)  Portrait of a Woman 1560-1580

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607)  Portrait of a Woman 1560

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman 1555-65

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman c 1557

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman (1535-1607)

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Ritratto di Giovanna

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Giovanna of Austria 1580

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Isabella Orsini 1560-70

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Laudomia or Isabella di Cosimo I de' Medici

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Maria de Gomez

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman 1559

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman 1570-80

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman 1580-90

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman c 1560-1580

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Isabella wife of Paolo Orsini c 1565

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman of Florence 1580

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of Dianora di Toledo de' Medici c 1571

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Portrait of a Woman with Dog 1560-1580

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) perhaps Bianca Capello

Painting Associated with the Artist or the Workshop of Alessandro Allori (Italian Mannerist Painter, 1535-1607) Woman with Dog 1560-70.

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

17C Advice on the Duty of a Wife to her Husband

Jean Leblond 1605-1666 L'Ysabelle;  François Ragot (Print made by); Young woman, half-length, turned to right; lace headdress, large collar trimmed with lace, and dark dress with light-coloured, striped sleeves


Hannah Woolley. The Gentlewoman's Companion: or, A Guide to the Female Sex. London, A Maxwell for Edward Thomas, Bookseller. 1675.

Of Marriage, and the duty of a Wife to her Husband.

Marriage is an holy and inviolable bond; if the choice on both sides be good and well- ordered, there is nothing in the World that is more beautiful, more comfortable. It is a sweet Society, full of trust and loyalty. It is a fellowship, not of hot distempered love, but endeared affection; for these two are as different as the inflamed fit of an high Fever, from the natural heat of a sound and healthy body. Love in the first acceptation is a distemper, and no wonder then that Marriage succeed so ill, which have their original from such disordered amorous desires. This boiling affection is seldom worth any thing.

There are these two Essentials in Marriage, Superiority and Inferiority. Undoubtedly the Husband hath power over the Wife, and the Wife ought to be subject to the Husband in all things. Although the Wife be more noble in her extraction, and more wealthy in portion, yet being once Married is inferior to her Husband in condition. Man, of human-kind, wa Gods first workmanship; Woman was made after Man, and of the same substance, to be subservient and assisting to him...

The more particular duties of a Wife to an Husband, are first, to have a greater esteem for him than for any other person...That Woman that will entertain mean and low thoughts of her Husband, will be easily induced to love another, whom she ought not to affect. On this good esteem depends a great part of the Wives obedience, who will be apt to run into extravagancies when she is once possessed of the weakness of her Husbands understanding: She is to give honour, respect, and reverence to her Husband; so have the wisest ever done, and those which do it not, betray their indiscretion; with reverence she is to express her obedience in all lawful things; and apply and accommodate her self (as much as in her lies) to his humour and disposition.

You must be mindful of what you promised your Husband in Marriage; and the best demonstration thereof will be in your carriage; honour and obey, and love no mans company better than his.

Be quiet, pleasant, and peaceable with him, and be not angry, when he is so; but endeavour to pacifie him with sweet and winning expressions & if casually you should provoke him to a passion, be not long ere you shew some regret, which may argue how much you are displeased with your self for so doing; nay bear his anger patiently, though without a cause.

Be careful to keep your house in good order, and let all things with decency be in readiness when he comes to his repast; let him not wait for his meals, lest by so staying his affairs be disorder'd or impeded. And let what-ever you provide be so neatly and cleanly drest, that his fare, though ordinary, may engage his appetite, and disingage his fancy from Taverns, which many are compell'd to make use of by reason of the continual and daily dissatisfactions they find at home.

Shew respect and kindness to what Friends he brings home with him, but more especially to his Relations for by this means he will find your love to him by your respect to them; and they will be obliged to love you for your own as well s his sake.

Suffer not any to buz in your ears detracting stories of him, and abhor it in your Servants, for it is your duty to hide his faults and infirmities, and not detect them your self, or suffer them to be discovered. Take them for your greatest enemies who perswade you against your Husband; for without question they have some dangerous design in it. Those whom God hath joined together, let no man put asunder; Cursed then is that instrument which occasions their separation.

Breed up your Children in as much or more obedience to him than your self; and keep them in so much awe that they shew no rudeness before him, or make any noise to his disturbance. Make them shew him all awful regard, and kee them sweet, clean, and decent, that he may delight himself in them.

Let him see your love to him in your care for them; educating and bringing them up in the knowledg of Religion, with their Learning.

Be careful to manage what money he doth trust youwith, to his and your own credit: abuse not the freedom you have of his purse, by being too lavish; and pinch not the Guts of your Family at home, that you may pamper your abroad; or throw away that money in buying trifles, which shall evidence your vanity as well as luxury.

To govern an House is an excellent and profitable employment; there Is nothing more beautiful than an Houshold well and peaceably governed; it is a prosession that is not difficult; for she that is not capable of any thing else, may be capable of this.

The principal precepts that belong to the frugal ordering and disposing Houshold-affairs may be compremis'd under these heads.

First to buy and sell all things at the best times and seasons.

Secondly, to take an especial care that the goods in the house be not spoiled by negligence of servants or otherwise.

Let me counsel you not only to avoid unnecessary or immoderate charges, but also with a little cost make a great shew; but above all suffer not your expence to exceed the receipt of your Husbands income. There is a Proverbial saying, That the Masters eye maketh the Horse fat; I am sure the active vigilance of a good and careful Wife is the ready way to enrich a bad Husband.

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

16C Portraits of Women attr to Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca (1494–1557)

Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca [also known as Francesco Ubertini, il Bacchiacca] (1494-557) Portrait of a Woman with a Cat

Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca [also known as Francesco Ubertini, il Bacchiacca] (1494 – 1557) Woman with Child

Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca [also known as Francesco Ubertini, il Bacchiacca] (1494 – 1557) Portrait of a Woman

Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca [also known as Francesco Ubertini, il Bacchiacca] (1494–1557) Woman with a Cat 1540s

Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca [also known as Francesco Ubertini, il Bacchiacca] (1494–1557) Portrait of a Woman with a Book of Music 1540

Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca [also known as Francesco Ubertini, il Bacchiacca] (1494–1557) Sibyl-1540

Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca [also known as Francesco Ubertini, il Bacchiacca] (1494–1557) Mary Magdalen

Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca [also known as Francesco Ubertini, il Bacchiacca] (1494–1557) Portrait of Vittoria Colonna

Francesco d'Ubertino Verdi, called Bachiacca [also known as Francesco Ubertini, il Bacchiacca] (1494–1557) Portrait of a Woman 1520s

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

17C The Most Esteemed Qualities of a Gentlewomen

The Gentleman & Gentlewoman - front page engraving by William Marshall to the 3rd edition of Richard Braithwaite’s book The English gentleman; & The English gentlewoman: both in one volume couched, & in one modell portrayed: to the living glory of their sexe, the lasting story of their worth. Being presented to present times for ornaments; commended to posterity for presidents. With A ladies love-lecture & a supplement lately annexed, & entitled The turtles triumph ...

Richard Brathwaite, (c 1588-1673)

The English Gentleman and Gentlewoman, Richard Braithwaite’s book published in 1641, was basically a guide to what was acceptable behaviour. It wasn’t a small book. As the author said in his introduction: “I had purposed that this work should have been digested into a portable volume, to the end it might bee more familiar with a Gentleman’s pocket, not to pick it, but that hee might picke some good from it: But since the Volume would not beare it, you must with patience beare with it, and with more trouble beare it, by inlarging your pocket to contain it.”

“Art aims to represent not the outward appearance of things, but  their inward significance.”– Aristotle

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

17C Women Portrayed as The Four Complexions by William Marshall

 William Marshall (British printmaker, 1617-1649) The Foure Complexions 1662 - Phlegmatic

Sir Thomas Elyot's (c 1490-1546) Castel of Helthe, 1541, "Complexion is a combynation of two dyvers qualities of the foure elements in one bodye, as hotte and drye of the Fyre: hotte and inoyste of the Ayre."

 William Marshall (British printmaker, 1617-1649) The Foure Complexions 1636 - Melancholy

Bartholomeus Anglicus (Bartholomew of England) (c 1203–1272),  Batman vppon Bartholome, "Mans bodie is made of foure Elements, that is to wit, of Earth, Water, Fire and Aire: euery seuerall hath his proper qualities. Foure be called the first and principall qualityes, that is heate, cold, drie, and moist: they be called the first qualities, because they slide first from the Elements into the things that be made of Elements."

 William Marshall (British printmaker, 1617-1649) The Foure Complexions 1636 - Sanguine

Sir John Harington's (1561-1612) Englishmans Doctor, or the Schoole of Salerne, 1608,  "The watry flegmatique are fayre and white; The sanguin, roses joynd to lillies bright; The collericke, more red; the melancholy, Alluding to their name, are swart and colly."

William Marshall (British printmaker, 1617-1649) The Foure Complexions - Chollerick

From William Shakespeare's (1564-1616) Love's Labour's Lost  Act 1, Scene 2

Boy, A Woman, Master. 
Brag. Of what complexion?
Boy. Of all the foure, or the three, or the two, or one of the foure.
Brag. Tell me precifely of what complexion?
Boy. Of the sea-water Greene sir.
Brag. Is that one of the foure complexions?
Boy. As I haue read sir, and the beft of them too. 
Brag. Greene indeed is the colour of Lovers: but to haue a Love of that colour, methinkes Sampfon had small reason for it. He surely affected her for her wit.
Boy. It was so sir, for she had a greene wit.