Friday, April 21, 2023

17 - 18C Mothers & Children on Garden Terraces

Godfrey Kneller (German-born English artist, 1646-1723) The Harvey Family
 c 1694 Godfrey Kneller (German-born English artist, 1646-1723) Queen Anne; William, Duke of Gloucester
 1705 Godfrey Kneller (German-born English artist, 1646-1723)  Jemima, Duchess of Kent (d.1728), and Her Daughter Lady Jemima Grey
 1723 Godfrey Kneller (German-born English artist, 1646-1723) Thomas Hesketh (1698–1735), MP, His Wife Martha St Amand (d.1782), Mrs Thomas Hesketh, and a Son

Thursday, April 20, 2023

18C Women Around the World


Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Wednesday, April 19, 2023

1675 On the Gait or Gesture of the Proper 17C Gentlewoman

Wenceslaus Hollar (European-born English artist, 1607-1677) Young woman with scarf on her head, after Bonsignori. 1645


Hannah Woolley. The Gentlewoman's Companion: or, A Guide to the Female Sex. London, A Maxwell for Edward Thomas, Bookseller. 1675.


Of the Gait or Gesture

It is an easie matter to gather the disposition of our heart, by the dimension of our Gait. A light carriage most commonly discovers a loose inclination; as jetting and strutting, shew haughtiness and self-conceit. Were your bodies transparent, you could not more perspicuously display your levity than by wanton Gesticulations.

Tuesday, April 18, 2023

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Monday, April 17, 2023

Early 17C British Women

 1653 Agnes Impel - the wife of Sir Jacob Astley

 Anne Babington of Rothley Temple thought to be painted by Daniel Muytens and from 1645

 By William Dobson, thought to be his 2nd wife Judith.

 Cornelis Janssens van  Ceulen - Elizabeth Holte (c1605-after-1670)

 Cornelius Janssens van Ceulen - Elizabeth - Lady Coventry

 Cornelius Johnson - Lady Ann Fanshawe 1625-1680 wife of Sir Richard Fanshawe

 Elizabeth Cromwell Mother of Oliver Cromwell Painted by Robert Walker, sometime between 1640 and 1655.

 Henry Giles in 1639 Catherine Lucas, Lady Pye

 Isobel Heyton 1634 by Thomas Leigh wife of Thomas Heyton

 Lady Elizabeth Fane 1640
 
 Painted by Gilbert Jackson in 1638

Style of Peter Lely c 1650. Anne was in her own right Lady Anne Clifford, she was a diarist, landowner married Richard Sackville, Earl of Dorset and Philip Herbert 4th Earl of Pembroke.

Margaret Conyers or Mrs John Buxton of Tibbenham, painted about 1640

Sunday, April 16, 2023

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Saturday, April 15, 2023

17C Amazing Gowns & Hairstyles from Spain & Portugal

Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez (Spanish painter, 1599-1660) Portrait of Queen Mariana of Austria (1634-1696), 1656.
Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez (Spanish painter, 1599-1660) Queen Dona Mariana of Austria in 1653
Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez (Spanish painter, 1599-1660) Maria Theresa of Austria, Infanta of Spain (1638-1683)
Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez (Spanish painter, 1599-1660) Maria Theresa of Austria, Infanta of Spain (1638-1683)
 Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez (Spanish painter, 1599-1660) Queen Mariana of Austria
Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez (Spanish painter, 1599-1660) Queen Maria Anna of Spain
 1660s Juan Carreño de Miranda (Spanish artist, 1614-1685) Ines de Zúñiga, countess of Monterrey
 1661 After Dirk Stoop (Dutch painter, c 1618-1686) Portrait of Catherine of Braganza Portugese (1638-1705)
 1665 Gérard Du Château Infanta Teresa Magarita
 1665-1670 Juan Carreño de Miranda (Spanish artist, 1614-1685) Doña Francisca de Velasco, Marquesa de Santa Cruz
Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez (Spanish painter, 1599-1660) Queen Isabella of Spain (1602-1644) 1632

Friday, April 14, 2023

18C Women Around the World


Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Thursday, April 13, 2023

1675 Instructions for 17C Cookmaids How to make both handsome & toothsome Dishes


Wenceslaus Hollar (European-born English artist, 1607-1677) Head of a woman, after Lorenzo de Credi. 1646

Hannah Woolley. The Gentlewoman's Companion: or, A Guide to the Female Sex. London, A Maxwell for Edward Thomas, Bookseller. 1675.

Instructions for Absolute Cookmaids

Your skill will chiefly consist in dressing all sorts of Meat, both Fish, flesh and Fowl, all manner of Baked-meats, all kind of Sawces, and which are most proper for every sort of Dish, and be curious in garnishing your Dishes, and making all manner of Pickles...

And as you must know how to dress Meat well, so you must know how to save what is left of that you have dressed, of which you may make both handsome and toothsome Dishes again, to the saving of your Masters purse, and the credit of his Table.


Be as saving as you can, and cleanly about every thing; see also that your Kitchen be kept clean, and all thigns scoured in due time; your Larders also and Cupboards, that there be no bits or meat or bread lye about them to spoil and stink.


That your Meat taint not for want of good Salting.

Wednesday, April 12, 2023

18C Women Around the World


Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Tuesday, April 11, 2023

1675 Instructions for 17C Chambermaids

Jean Leblond 1605-1666 Margot; François Ragot (Print made by); Elderly woman, half-length, turned l, holding the portrait of a young woman (or a mirror reflecting a young woman's image) in her hands


Hannah Woolley. The Gentlewoman's Companion: or, A Guide to the Female Sex. London, A Maxwell for Edward Thomas, Bookseller. 1675.

Instructions for Chambermaids


It will be required of you, that you Dress well that you may be able to supply the place of the waiting-woman, should the chance to fall sick, or be absent from your Lady; you must wash fine Linnen well and starch Tiffanies, Lawns Points, and Laces, mend them neatly; and wash white Sarcenets, with such like things.


You must make your Ladies bed; lay up, and lay out her Night-clothes; see that her Chamber be kept clean, and nothing wanting which she desires or requires to be done. Be modest in your deportment, ready at her call, always diligent, answering not again when reprov'd, but with pacifying words; loving & courteous to your fellow-servants not gigling or idling out your time, nor wantoning in the society of men; you will find the benefit thereof; for an honest and sober man will sooner make that woman his Wife whom he seeth continually imployed about her business, than one who makes it her business to trifle away her own and others time; neither will a virtuous and understanding Mistress long entertain such a servant whom she finds of such a temper.

Monday, April 10, 2023

18C Women Around the World


Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Sunday, April 9, 2023

16C Women Portrayed in Spring


Lucas van Valckenborch (1535-1597) Spring, 1595

Saturday, April 8, 2023

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Friday, April 7, 2023

1675 Beware of Licentious Amorists or a Gentlewoman's Civil Behavior to All Sorts of People in All Places

Wenceslaus Hollar (European-born English artist, 1607-1677) Young woman with a cap and feather. 1647

Hannah Woolley. The Gentlewoman's Companion: or, A Guide to the Female Sex. London, A Maxwell for Edward Thomas, Bookseller. 1675.

Of a Gentlewomans civil Behaviour to all sorts of people in all places.

Be not easily induc'd to enter into discourse with strangers, for nothing argueth levity and indicretion more than that. Confort your self with your betters as near as you can, yet do not despise your equals, but in a most especial manner avoid all familiarity with your inferiors; if Female, in a little time they will thereby be drawn to slight you; if Male, they will be incouraged to attack your honour unlwfully, or subtilly insinuate themselves into affection, whereby though you are as high in fortune, as honourable in birth, you may stoop to so low a contract, that forgetting your self by the incessant importunities of their over-blown desires, you are overcome, & so become a grief to your friends, a shame to your selves, and a lamentable spectacle of reproach and sorrow to that worthy Family, from whence you had your Original.

Affect not the vanity of some, in being seen in publick too frequently. Thus many excellent Ladies have exposed themselves to the mercy of the Tempter, who otherwise had stood impregnable in the defence of their Chastities. You think, it may be, and intend no harm in your Promenades or walks; but by so doing, you give too often occasion for licentious Amorists to meet with you, and may thereby be perswaded to throw off the vail of circumspection, to give attention to some wanton smutty story...


Be not guilty of the unpardonable faulty of some, who never thing they do better than when they speak most; uttering an Ocean of words, without one drop of reason; talking much, expressing little...


As I would not advise you to be over-reserv'd, so give not too loose reins to liberty, making pleasure your vocation...


Shun all affectation in your behaviour; for Vertue admits of no such thing in her gesture or habit, but that which is proper, and not enforced; native or decent, and not what is apishly introduced. Therefore since nothing better befits you than what is your own, make known by your dress, how much you hate formality. To this end play not the Hypocrite with your Creator, in pretending to go to Church to serve him, whereas it is to serve your selves in the imitation of some new fashion. That which becometh another well, may ill become you...


Affectation cannot be conceal'd, and the indecency of your deportment will quickly bne discovered in publick Societies; wherefore behave your self so discreetly abroad, that you may confer no less a benefit on such as see your behaviour, than you profit such as shall observe your carriage at home: Express in publick such a well-becoming Garb, that every action may deserve the applause & imitation of all that are in your company. Let your conceits be nimble and ready, and not temper'd or mixt with lightness; let your jests be innocent and seasonable, without the least capriciousness; let your discourse be free without niceness; your whole carriage delightful, and agreeable, and flowing with a seeming carelessness.

Thursday, April 6, 2023

18C Women Around the World


Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Wednesday, April 5, 2023

1675 Instructions for Dairy-Maids

Hannah Woolley. The Gentlewoman's Companion: or, A Guide to the Female Sex. London, A Maxwell for Edward Thomas, Bookseller. 1675.
Instructions for Dairy-Maids

Have a care that all your Vessels be scalded well, and kept very clean; that you milk your Cattel in due time; for your Kine by custom, will expect it, though you neglect it, which will tend much to their detriment.

Waste not your Cream by giving it away to liquorish persons; keep certain days for your Churning, and be sure to make up your Butter neatly and cleanly, washing it well from the Butter-milk, and then salt it well.

Be careful to make your Cheeses good and tender, by well ordering them; and see that your Hogs have the whey, and that it be not given away to idle or gossipping people, who live meerly upon what they can get from servants: That you provide your Winter-Butter and Cheese in the Summer, as in May; and when your Rowens come in, be sparing of your Fire; and do not lavish away your Milk-butter or Cheese.

If you have any Fowls to fat, or Pigs, look to them that it may be your credit, and not your shame, when they come to the Table.

When you milk your Cattel, stroke them well, and in the Summer-time save those strokings by themselves, to put into your morning-Milk-cheese.

Tuesday, April 4, 2023

18C Women Around the World

Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Monday, April 3, 2023

1675 On the Governance of the Eye by Gentlewomen

Wenceslaus Hollar (European-born English artist, 1607-1677) Woman with a turban, after Schongauer.

Hannah Woolley. The Gentlewoman's Companion: or, A Guide to the Female Sex. London, A Maxwell for Edward Thomas, Bookseller. 1675.

Of the Government of the Eye.

As prudence is the eye of the Soul, so Discretion is the apple of that Eye but as for the natural Eyes, they are the Casements of the Soul, the Windows of Reason: As they are the inlets of Understanding, so they are the outlets or discoverers of many inward corruptions.


A wanton Eye is the truest evidence of a wandring and distracted mind. As by them you ought not to betray to others view, your imperfections within; so be not betray'd by their means, by vain objects without: This made the Princely Prophet pray so earnestly, Lord turn away my eyes from vanity. And hence appears our misery, that those eyes which should be the Cisterns of sorrow, Limbecks of contrition, should become the lodges of lust, and portals of our perdition...


An unclean Eye, is the messenger of an unclean Heart; wherefore confine the one, and it will be a means to rectifie the other. There are many Objects a wandring Eye finds out, whereon to vent the disposition of her corrupt heart.


The ambitious Eye makes Honour her object wherewith she torments her self, both in aspiring to what she cannot enjoy; as likewise, in seeing another enjoy that whereto her self did aspire.


The covetous Eye makes Wealth her object; which she obtains with toil, enjoys with fear, forgoes with grief; for being got, they load her; lov'd they soil her; lost, they gall her.


The envious Eye makes her Neighbours flourishing condition her object; she cannot but look on it; looking, pine and repine at it; and by repining, with envy, murders her quiet and contentment.


The loose or lascivious Eye makes Beauty her object; and with a leering look, or wanton glance, while she throweth out her lure to catch others, she becomes catcht her self.


Gentlewomen, I am not insensible, that you frequent places of eminency for resort, which cannot but offer to your view variety of pleasing Objects. Nay, there where nothing but chast thoughts, staid looks, and modest desires, should harbour, are too commonly loose thought, light looks, and licentious desires in especial honour...


Be assured, there is no one sense that more distempers the harmony of the mind, nor prospect of the Soul, than this window of the body...Do not then depress your Eyes as if Earth were the Center of their happiness, but on Heaven the Haven of their bliss after Earth. To conclude, so order and dispose your looks, that censure may not tax them with lightness, nor an amorous glance impeach you of wantonness...

Sunday, April 2, 2023

18C Women Around the World


Costumes de Differents Pays, by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (France, 1757-1810) c 1797 Hand-Colored Engraving from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

By the end of the 18C, worldwide exploration & colonization by Europeans were fairly commonplace, enabling the late 18C & 19C public to catch a glimpse of the clothing & customs of other peoples.

Saturday, April 1, 2023

1675 Advice on the potential dangers of a Gentlewoman's "wanton" eye

Jean Leblond 1605-1666 Marotte; François Ragot (Print made by);Young woman, half-length, turned to left; lace headdress with hairpin, large ruff, and striped dress


Hannah Woolley. The Gentlewoman's Companion: or, A Guide to the Female Sex. London, A Maxwell for Edward Thomas, Bookseller. 1675.

Of the Government of the Eye.


As prudence is the eye of the Soul, so Discretion is the apple of that Eye but as for the natural Eyes, they are the Casements of the Soul, the Windows of Reason: As they are the inlets of Understanding, so they are the outlets or discoverers of many inward corruptions.

A wanton Eye is the truest evidence of a wandring and distracted mind. As by them you ought not to betray to others view, your imperfections within; so be not betray'd by their means, by vain objects without: This made the Princely Prophet pray so earnestly, Lord turn away my eyes from vanity. And hence appears our misery, that those eyes which should be the Cisterns of sorrow, Limbecks of contrition, should become the lodges of lust, and portals of our perdition...


An unclean Eye, is the messenger of an unclean Heart; wherefore confine the one, and it will be a means to rectifie the other. There are many Objects a wandring Eye finds out, whereon to vent the disposition of her corrupt heart.


The ambitious Eye makes Honour her object wherewith she torments her self, both in aspiring to what she cannot enjoy; as likewise, in seeing another enjoy that whereto her self did aspire.


The covetous Eye makes Wealth her object; which she obtains with toil, enjoys with fear, forgoes with grief; for being got, they load her; lov'd they soil her; lost, they gall her.


The envious Eye makes her Neighbours flourishing condition her object; she cannot but look on it; looking, pine and repine at it; and by repining, with envy, murders her quiet and contentment.


The loose or lascivious Eye makes Beauty her object; and with a leering look, or wanton glance, while she throweth out her lure to catch others, she becomes catcht her self.


Gentlewomen, I am not insensible, that you frequent places of eminency for resort, which cannot but offer to your view variety of pleasing Objects. Nay, there where nothing but chast thoughts, staid looks, and modest desires, should harbour, are too commonly loose thought, light looks, and licentious desires in especial honour...


Be assured, there is no one sense that more distempers the harmony of the mind, nor prospect of the Soul, than this window of the body...Do not then depress your Eyes as if Earth were the Center of their happiness, but on Heaven the Haven of their bliss after Earth. To conclude, so order and dispose your looks, that censure may not tax them with lightness, nor an amorous glance impeach you of wantonness...